Wednesday, 26 October 2016

The strong women of Palestine


Finding an affinity across cultures with people is challenging in most contexts and you look for similarities to prompt conversation, to feel comfortable together. You hope to connect in deeper and more significant ways.

I didn't expect that on a trip which focuses on setting up international links in education (an opportunity to discuss pedagogy, swap resources and find ways to educate young people across boarders about lives which are wholly different to their own) that I would confront a depiction of reality that would challenge my perceptions of how people can suffer the limits of an occupation - whether of territory or over the mind and body- with a dignity and strength that is overwhelmingly inspiring.

The belief that everyone is deserving of equal human rights is at the root of our finding ourselves thousands of miles from home, working and exploring from dawn until dusk. This trip would be exhausting and without reprieve if it was not for the tireless work of the strong, resourceful and positively feisty women who surround us with food, drink and the warmest company.

Their personalities shine through, pervade the awkward silences and dominate the masculine reticence to discuss anything beyond politics and polite intrigue into our differing family structures. They are unafraid of the language barrier: whether continuing in Arabic for three sentences after it has become clear that the content is impossibly obscured from the recipient or joyfully experimenting and laughing raucously when we've all tried tongue twisters across English and Arabic. 

Since arriving in Palestine it is not the women's bravery and ease in social situations or their amazing ability to host and attend to all the real and imagined needs of guests without a flicker of surprise that has struck me. It is that they have managed to forge for themselves an existence that in its familial centric boarders can be both fruitful and fun. 

I have laughed, listened and learnt from their stories and experiences: tales of child marriages (which are not uncommon), repeated difficulties with birthing, limitations in education with a lack of physical education and single sex classrooms, perceiving latent and unspoken violence . . . along side close-knit and female orientated celebrations which come in all forms - simply shopping and dressing yourself, your house or your friends in opulent and luxurious looking decoration, organising huge and raucous pre-wedding waxing rituals in which dancing is compulsory (as well as the many excuses for private and public solely female attended parties).

I know that I came here concerned about the human rights abuses that take place in a country which has been both condemned and forgotten by the global community and I will take away with me the sense that people in Britain have more to learn about and from Palestine than just the national crisis of identity. That there is a far more complex, gendered and difficult problem within communities and the education system here is clear. It is the comprehension of and acceptance of divisions and barriers that will help us come closer together as nations and people and for me the women and girls I have met in Palestine will be the driving force behind my desire to create stronger links across our cultures and schools.








Starting the residential

Beautiful to wake up to soft sun and friendly faces today, and we did so much this morning. Explored the grounds and looked at the olives and the area. Ate a big breakfast and began our workshops.  Started to share and learn and collect questions...so far, so very good

Separation Wall at Abu Dis

Tuesday, 25 October 2016

Thanks for your welcome

A really big thanks to our teacher friends for their great welcome to their homes and for the very delicious food - what a lot of effort but it was so much appreciated! Yesterday Rudaina and family and today Kefah and family.  This picture was after an unforgettable feast!

PALESTINE DAY 5 BACK TO SCHOOL

Saladin's minaret wakes us up at 4 to pray and the mosquitoes follow not long after to berate us for staying in bed. We've grown sluggish in the heat around Jerusalem but fresh falafel and a walk through down town Abu Dis wakes us out of our dreams. Today we have the pleasure of tours around the towns schools,  our group heads to Abu Dis Girls School,  Abu Dis Boys School,  the Nehru School (all state run single sex establishments) and the Arab Institute (a boys private school).

We wait in the headmistress' office of Abu Dis Girls School for the French teacher who excuses her perfect English before translating her stern director's greetings. We hear the same forgettable facts: population, subjects studied, curriculum, pathways, achievements of the students whilst we all pine to see some teaching. We are not disappointed. As we slip in and out of classrooms, down corridors, up staircases we see eyes widen in shock at the rare sight of international visitors, lips mouth muddled greetings in varied languages, guessing our nationality. The lessons we do disturb are a joy to see as a teacher. Polite, engaged students who are excited to greet visitors but also keen to continue their lessons and show their teacher that they are on task and hard working, attentive students. Before our jealousy had time to settle we were whisked into computer labs and libraries as well as into one of our host's biology lab, full of what can only be described as taxidermy misdemeanours. Our visit was epitomised by our visit to the outside canteen furnished with coloured stools made out of tyres and children surrounding their English teacher singing gleefully in all tones and shrieking like some sequel to the sound of music as we approached. The English teacher smiles proudly as she greets us as the song comes to an end. We leave full of optimism about teaching in the shadow of the wall.

Abu Dis Boys is another world. We begin our tour in their 5th Grade, 11 year old stare our at us, ask our names and show off their knowledge of ordinal numbers. Their command of English is impressive and the class seems positive and enthusiastic. As we progress down the corridor and up the years the class sizes increase and the behaviour becomes wild. By the end of the corridor we are at the 9th Grade. 50 boys in a room, or are meant to be. Some wander the halls, some sneak out of the front gate. Order is nowhere to be seen. It's sad to see the difference in education for the boys and we leave feeling deflated.

We stroll over to the the Arab Institute, a private boys school with accommodation for orphans and absent (often imprisoned) parents. We meet the headmaster and an 11year old boy with both his parents in jail before meeting some of the students who have prepared a presentation about the various Palestinian Ids. The boys here are so articulate and passionate that the Abu Dis Boys School has fallen out of our thoughts. It seems like it's fallen out of the thoughts of the educational authority as well.

After our lunch at Al-Quds University we plan twinning links with our Palestinian colleagues through broken English and cod Arabic. We hear about broken promises and ignored letters and make assurances that we will be better. Over dinner phones buzz with pictures and plans and we settle in to long conversations and thoughts for the future.

Playground at the Arab Institute

Sweet boys (said the teachers who gave them flowers) and a tear gas cannister (a new type we were told) that the Israeli army shot into ye playground a few days before.

Monday, 24 October 2016

Sebastia...

A long day today but that didn't stop us accepting the invitation by Abu Yasser to breakfast in Sebastia... and so glad we did. A memorable breakfast with everything tasty and good, and then a look at the Roman ruins.

Tom was the most excited! Or maybe I thought that he must be as he's a classicist.  But all of us loved being there and in the dreamy Palestinian hills in the autumn sunshine.

And then confronted with the current occupation reality: settlements. GROWING. EVERYWHERE.